The latest extract from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook focuses on the factors which weaken a rope and features as part of a chapter dedicated to Equipment.

Limitations of a dynamic rope

• A wet rope will be heavier and harder to use.
• If your rope freezes, its performance capabilities diminish (by almost half compared to a dry rope).
• A rope can easily burn or “melt” under severe friction (a large fall, an excessively fast rappel, rope-on-rope rubbing).
• A burned rope has reduced performance capabilities.
• Dust, especially grains of granite and sand, causes premature damage to the rope’s core fibers and shortens its lifespan.
• Solar/UV rays speed up wear and tear.
• Kinks and snarls render use more difficult.
• Impact over a sharp edge can sever the rope, which is why double ropes are safest when trad climbing.

Extending a rope’s life span

• Do not drag your rope through the dirt.
• Do not let your rope snag on anything and arrange it neatly at belay stations.
• Avoid running the rope over abrasive surfaces and sharp edges as much as
• Alternate the belay and tie-in ends.
• Wash your rope in lukewarm water with a very mild detergent.
• Dry your rope in the shade, and store it in a cool, dry place.
• Do not leave your rope out in the sun.
• Use your rope only for climbing.
• Inspect your rope regularly.
• Store your rope butterfly coiled or loose in a rope bag.
• Keep your rope away from chemicals and acids.